Finding an ethical and high quality linen manufacturer was a very time consuming process but it taught us a lot about the fashion industry.

When we started looking into the textile industry and the chemicals used in growing and dying different fabrics, we began to realise there is little to no accountability for designers and producers to ensure their products are not damaging to the planet or the people who wear their products.

One of the first fabric companies we got in touch with (who supply a large number of Kiwi designers), shocked us in that they had no knowledge and no care for the origins of the product they were selling. When we asked where the fabric was from and how it was dyed, they responded by saying “it was made in China. That is all I know and that is all I can tell you.” Needless to say, we moved away from that guy pretty quickly, but it did clarify that even when a product is ‘made in New Zealand,’ it is not necessarily sustainable by any means.

The search for a sustainable supplier continued and as we learned more about the issues caused by fabric production, we became more passionate about supporting businesses who are concerned about people and the planet as well as their bottom line. Some of the key issues that stuck are:

There are rivers in China do not flow clear but rather are the so called ‘colour of the season’ as a result of the fabric dyes used by large companies (ew). It is estimated that 70% of the rivers in China (where most of our clothes are made) are contaminated by the wastewater produced by the textile industry.
Chemicals are used in making fabric that haven’t been tested for their impact on humans and the planet. A number of these never break down, and are beginning to be proven to cause cancers and other diseases, travelling through rivers, lakes and streams into our oceans and eventually into our bodies.
Basic human rights, including those for clean water and safe working conditions, have been completely eroded by a number of large scale production corporations. To maximise economies of scale, and to satisfy the demands for ‘fast-fashion,’ companies are motivated to manufacture more than they will ever sell. This results in a huge amount of wasted clothes season after season.

Note - if you are interested in finding out more on this, Riverblue is a great film, or see the further sources below.

These are all obviously an overwhelmingly big area of ethical concern as we learn more about the negative impact of human activity on the environment, and there is so much that we don’t know yet. So, obviously we were becoming quite disheartened with the whole Sunday Projects idea until we came across the OEKO-TEX® certification system.

$OEKO-TEX® is a way to ensure consumers can be confident what textiles they are buying are safe for human wear.$

OEKO-TEX® is a way to ensure consumers can be confident what textiles they are buying are safe for human wear.

OEKO-TEX® is an independent, worldwide testing and certification system for textile products that was established in 1992.

It is a scientific body which tests and measures for several hundred regulated individual substances, including harmful chemicals that are not yet regulated. Extensive product checks and regular company on-site visits also ensure that the industry has a globally sustainable awareness of the responsible use of chemicals. With this concept, the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® has taken on a pioneering role for many years in ensuring designers and consumers can be confident what they are buying does not have harmful chemicals.

If you buy a product that is OEKO-TEX® certified, it means the textiles have been tested and are certified safe for human use and free of harmful chemicals. I know, it seems weird that we need a certification for this (shouldn’t all clothes be safe?) but unfortunately we need to have independent bodies to check this. It is important to ask where your fabric is from so you can be certain your fashion choices aren’t hurting the environment (or even worse - hurting the workers who are intimately working with the chemicals every day).

This not only means the clothes are safe for you and your family to wear without risk of toxic chemicals leeching into your skin, it also ensures the fabrics are beautiful to wear and are especially great for those with sensitive skin.

“Oeko-Tex certified fabrics are required to have a skin friendly pH. If you remember your high school chemistry, pH is the indication of the level of acidity or base (salt). Skin's natural pH is a tad acidic, and when it's eroded your defenses are down, leaving you vulnerable to bacteria, moisture loss, and irritation. Oeko-Tex certified fabrics will not create these stresses. And the fabrics will feel lovely against your skin.” You can read more about this on the Two Sisters blog here.

Please note that we know this certification is is by no means perfect - it doesn’t confirm fair labour conditions, sustainable wastewater treatment, and other important factors in sustainable textile products, but it is a great start and shows that people are starting to care about how their products are made.

Sunday Projects are hopeful that in the future, as more consumers ask where their products come from, that these certifications will become standard for every product, and will become more thorough.

It goes without saying that our Billie dresses and our Annie bags are made from OEKO-TEX® certified linen and sewn in Wellington, New Zealand in fair trade working conditions (which is something we think is worth dancing about).

Josie x

p.s. If you have managed to stay here despite my cringe-worthy attempt at rhyme in the title of this post, thank you! I sincerely appreciate your patience as I attempt to make fabric chemicals interesting reading…

Sources & Further Reading:

https://www.oeko-tex.com/en/business/certifications_and_services/ots_100/ots_100_start.xhtml

https://www.ecowatch.com/fast-fashion-riverblue-2318389169.html

https://www.twosistersecotextiles.com/

RiverBlue film (see the trailer here)